Tuesday, June 3, 2008

Nicole Kidman Photo Gallery

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Naomi and ALT at the CFDA Awards


My eyes don't know where to land on this picture.

I don't even know who I am more mad at -- Naomi for those sequined harem pants or Andre for, well everything really.

In Naomi's defense, she is wearing clothing from Yves Saint Laurent's Fall 08 collection as an homage to the recently deceased designer. Andre is wearing a hand towel, my grandma's favorite house slippers and two albino anacondas accessorized with a fancy silver eyeglasses case from Claire's boutique.

The awards, which honor outstanding contributions to the American fashion industry, were held last night at The New York Public Library.

For a list of winner and more pictures click here.

Photo source: Dlisted

Monday, June 2, 2008

Fashion Blackout: The Play by Play

Photo: Models at Heatherette. When it comes to runways show it seems Blacks and Asians need not apply.

There's a brief clip from BET's Fashion Blackout on Jezebel today. I finally watched the half hour special this evening and while it wasn't perfect, it was better than I expected from BET. I was hoping for a little more analysis from the likes of Vogue's Andre Leon Talley but microphone-shoved-in-face-at-fashion-show "interview" didn't really add to the topic.

Here is a rundown of the highlights for anyone who missed the show (please note that I've paraphrased many of the quotes here, my shorthand sucks and my toddler really wasn't into this show):

The show seems to have been shot during NY Fashion Week. The opening sequence is a melange of images from the runway and backstage. The voice over notes that, judging from models used at these show, "black is definitely out."

Runway stylist Kithe Brewster comes on and remarks that it is time to take a stand against this blatant discrimination. The stylist, who has worked for designers (Rubin Singer), actresses (Halle Berry) and on Project Runway, remarked that season after season the same people in charge only look for one or two black faces. Brewster made a point of hiring several black models for the Rubin Singer show and hopes that his actions will set an example for other designers.

One of the models he cast named Lily shared that because the Eastern European look is hot, that black models can't catch a break. Another model, Britnee said she was very aware during the show of how much she and the other black models stood out compared to the white ones. Model Ayan, shared that upon her arrival in New York for Fashion Week, she went to a couple agencies, one of which said that they "already have a black girl who looks like you." She retorted that the agency represented 150 white models who are styled in the exact same way and are working.

Popular designer Tracey Reese shared that she had to specifically request black models or the agency wouldn't send any to casting. "If black girls aren't going to castings, they won't get booked!" The top tier black models like Jordan Dunn and Chanel Iman are immediately booked for high end shows and Reese noted that she never gets the opportunity to hire them for her shows.

The voice-over adds that in 2008 Blacks are reaching unprecedented heights in the media industry but the fashion dinosaur lags behind the times.

Roman Young, the white Director of New Faces at Elite Models, said that fashion editors have told him quite explicitly not to send Black or Asian models to castings.

The voice-over notes that "black" style is pivotal to American culture.

Constance White, Style Director at Ebay and a former editor at ELLE, WWD, and The New York Times, recalls that Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy once used many black models on their runways--superstars like Veronica Webb, Beverly Peele, and Yasmin--and that "we took it for granted [that they would alway be represented in shows.]"

Roman Young linked the downward spiral to the grunge movement in culture and fashion in the 90s. "Grunge was not ethnically diverse" and the fashion at the time started to reflect that. Also, when stylist began to become more prominent, color started fading from fashion. Andre Leon Talley noted that "sameness" became the rule.

Bethann Hardison shared that in her view, the "white eye" doesn't understand black beauty and if the new vanguard, European designers like Prada and Balenciaga, aren't using ethnic models then that discrimination will trickle down and become the norm.

Claude Grunitzky, Editor in Chief of Trace Magazine, puts the blame on the "three or four editors in Times Square" who dictate fashion for a living.

Somewhat echoing remarks made by Stefano Pilati, Bethann Hardison said quite bluntly (and inaccurately in my view) that "the body of a black girl" can't compete with that of an Eastern European model. "These people haven't eaten for generations (laughs)...generation-wise these people are very lean...that is why West African models get work now, because of their very narrow hips."

Model Lily comes on the screen to add that a new black model walking into a casting isn't viewed as a fresh face, she is viewed as the black model. They only see color.

Model Ayan notes that as black people we buy clothes from these same designers and yet they won't give us the chance to do a show. We are very beautiful people.

Voice-over comes on and states that black women spend $20 billion on apparel each year.

Kithe Brewster again: "We have to be conscious of our buying power - if you don't see yourself represented in their ads, don't buy their clothes."

Roman Young then shared this piece of information that made me want to put stiletto heeled boot in someone's ass:

[Agencies] are concerned with "am I picking the right one?" -- meaning the acceptable black model. They have used the term "bushy" to describe "African looking" black models. "She's so black and so severe that she must be The One." She looks so different that she must be beautiful.

Bethann Hardison shares that the fashion industry is a very exclusive almost elitist environment that has become "quite fascist right now."

She continues, adding that fashion is mainstream now and not a tiny island like it once was. It strikes a cord when people talk about this discrimination because this country has a history of fighting against such things and asking why is this happening? This is dumb.

Constance White adds that for a designer or editor to say that he or she would use a black model if they could find one "smacks at the heart of this whole issue of racism."

The show ends with highlights from the Sean John men's runway show in which he used all black models of diverse colors, looks and fits.

Hardison ends by noting that "we" need to do our part as well and adds that she is there ready to cultivate the talent.

Roll credits.

Well Shut My Mouth!

Photo: Campbell and Pilati attend a party at The Met (InStyle)


Stefano Pilati, the creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, has finally found a black body with "Caucasian anatomy." The Mail on Sunday has announced that Naomi Campbell will be replacing Kate Moss in upcoming ad campaigns for the label. Her contract is rumored to be worth about £200,000 (roughly $388K.)

Naomi worked with YSL in the 90s and last walked the runway for the label in 2001, when Yves Saint Laurent, the label's namesake, retired. She was quoted as saying ‘I’m blessed and grateful to be working with YSL again – a house that gave me a start in my career.’

Hey Look! A Black Girl on TV - 90s


I don't know if it's because it's Monday or if I was busy doing something other than watching TV in the 90s, but coming up with a list of memorable black women on TV from that era has been really tough. I guess this was the decade when we started going out of style.

Whereas, the 80s had a number of sitcoms centered around black actresses like A Different World, it seems the slow decline of the black themed sitcom started taking a toll in the 90s.

Here is what I came up with:

"Maxine Shaw" - Living Single

Might as well start at the top. Many people, myself included, believe that Living Single, was the inspiration for a certain other sitcom with two groups of professional singletons living together in the same building. I just bought the first season on DVD and I can tell you that it is just as much fun to watch the second time around. The disks are worth the price for the theme song alone. I have based my life on the teachings of sarcastic queen Maxine Shaw. Not only was she sexy and smart but she ate constantly and, unlike the other girls, had her own apartment.

"Judy Hoffs" - 21 Jumpstreet

The inspiration for these lists. She one was a rarity. Not only was Holly the sole woman in the cast but she was hot too. I will always envy her for getting to work so closely with Johnny Depp while he was still bathing regularly.

"Rhonda Blair" - Melrose Place

Poor Rhonda. All she ever got to do on that show was say hello/goodbye and go to her aerobics class. Then, all of a sudden, she got married and was written off the show. Aaron Spelling has not been good to black people.

The Black Chicks of "Buffy the Vampire Slayer"

Okay, so lets get this all out of the way...Kendra the Vampire Slayer was a wuss and left a LOT to be desired with that Ja-fakin' accent, Phina Oruche was wasted as Giles' girlfriend Olivia, the First Slayer had a ratty weave and was often referred to as "The Primitive," Ashanti was woefully miscast as "Lissa," Rhona the slayer trainee was annoying, and finally flashbacks of Nikki the Vampire Slaying single mom made us long for another show just centered around her. Whew! That said, I still loved this show more than cake and ice cream so I had to work it into the list somehow.

T'Keyah Crystal Keymáh and Kim Wayans - In Living Color

It's hard out there for the black female comic who has to deal with the racism and sexism while trying to be funny yet these two women did it with did it with élan. T'Keyah was the cute and funny girl next door while Kim Wayan proved with the Grace Jones sketch that she would do (or wear) almost anything for a laugh. Wayans was suspended from the show at one point for refusing to appear in a skit she found degrading. In the end, The Fly Girls probably got more attention but these two ladies definitely paved the way for another variety show funny lady...

Debra Wilson - "MADtv"

A lot of the sketches on MADtv are just plain unwatchable but Debra Wilson has always been the show's standout performer. Her impersonations are hilarious. I don't know why Saturday Night Live hasn't tried to steal her away. Fred Armistand's Obama is weak and Kennan Thomson is too heavy to pull off Michelle. What's Lorne going to do come election time?


"Lisa Turtle" - Saved by the Bell

Okay, technically this show started in 1989 but I forgot to add Lark Voorhies character to the last segment. Truthfully, I was only a casual viewer of SBtB but I watched enough to know that the only thing Lisa Turtle seemed to do on that show was shop and avoid the advances of Screech. Further proof that TV execs don't know what to do with pretty black women on the tube.

Honorable Mention

Vivica Fox from that episode of Beverly Hills 90210 where Brandon dates the town black girl.

Whatever became of poor forgotten Sherice Ashe? Was her family run out of the Hills? Did she moved in with her auntie and uncle in Bel-Air? Whatever the story Sherice, you made an impression on me and girl, you were too fly for Brandon Walsh anyway.

Sunday, June 1, 2008

RIP Yves Saint Laurent



After months of ailing health, legendary fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent died Sunday evening at his Paris home. His long-time partner Pierre Bergé was at his side. He is credited with being the first designer to use Black models in his runway show and one of his most famous muses was model Katoucha, who passed away earlier this year. Unfortunately the label's current fashion director, Stefano Pilati, doesn't share the founders vision. When asked about the lack of black models working YSL shows, he remarked:

"To me, it is a matter of proportions and the bodies I choose. My fit model was a black model," he says. "When I wanted to translate what I put on her, it was a disaster. It would need 13 times more work in the atelier to modify it to put on a more Caucasian anatomy."

Yves Saint Laurent was 71 at the time of his death. May he rest in peace.

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