Editor's Letter - July 1997 - Vogue Magazine

Letter from the Editor
Fashion's New Face

Within limits, Americans are exceedingly tolerant. We pride ourselves on our "live and let live" ethic, and it's probably safe to say that we show more respect for racial diversity than any other country in the West. The kinds of hideous public insults that Jackie Robinson endured 50 years ago are now virtually unknown in the United States, although they can still be heard on Saturday afternoons at rowdy soccer matches in Great Britain. While there continue to be unrepentant racists in the States, of course, they do not have the necessary mainstream support to mount major political parties that capture significant portions of the vote - as they do in France and Germany.
That said, American is a country of people with varied backgrounds, many of whom are not above exposing their racial biases. In terms of fashion magazines, for example, it is a fact of life that the color of a model's skin (or hair, for that matter) dramatically affects newsstand sales. Although it is rare for an issue of Vogue to go to the printer without one or more black models featured prominently inside, black models appear less often than I, and many of you, would like on Vogue's covers - which, no one will be shocked to hear, are designed to appeal to as large a group of potential readers as possible. This month, we feature a young, fresh-faced black model named Kiara Kabukuru on our cover, and I am crossing my fingers that Kiara will be embraced by magazine buyers everywhere - not because she's black but because she's beautiful.

Anna Wintour

Eleven years ago, Vogue editor Anna Wintour, featured Ugandan model Kiara Kabukuru (photographed by Steven Meisel) on the cover of the traditionally low selling July issue of American Vogue. I excerpted her letter here because it’s something that I find myself referring to often on this blog and I wanted everyone to be able to read Ms. Wintour’s words as she wrote them. What is interesting to me is that in spite of the fact that Wintour believes Europe is so much more intolerant that the United States, Kiara appeared on several fashion magazine covers there, including the French and Spanish editions of Vogue. To the best of my knowledge, neither of the editors of those magazines, printed letters begging their readers to “embrace” Kiara in spite of her blackness. Also, as a magazine editor with control of which models appear inside the issue as well as outside, Ms. Wintour puts the onus for change and acceptance directly onto the reader and not herself.

In the July 2008 issue of Vogue, which features an article called “Is Fashion Racist,” Ms. Wintour doesn’t refer to the piece, or this 1997 cover at all which surprised me. For all the criticism heaped on Vogue magazine lately, and Vogue Italia’s decision to dedicate their July issue to black models, I thought for sure she would use this issue as an opportunity to stand on her studded Balenciaga soap box and pat herself on the back for being so inclusive.

But there was nothing, which is probably just as well since really, after 10+ years what could she possibly say?

Photo Source: TFS

Noemie Lenoir - French Vogue July 2008

Beautiful French model Noémie Lenoir graces the cover of the July issue of French Vogue. Are they trying to one up Vogue Italia?

ETA: I guess the answer to that question is not completely since white French model Leticia Casta shares the cover, wearing the same outfit on the flip side of the magazine.

Alek Wek on Surface Magazine #72

Anatomy of a Cover: Essence Magazine

Another month, another ho-hum issue of Essence. Don't get me wrong, I love these three ladies and the multiple "collector's edition" covers** with those pretty but predictable portraits are a nice touch but wouldn't it be nice if they featured an up and coming artist for one of the "music issue" covers? Am I the only one who want to see Santogold or Alice Smith get a little more love from our press? Damn, Mary and Jill have become Essence's money shot covers as they seem to be on it a couple of times per year.

Looking back on the 12 issues of Essence published this year, one can easily recognize their cover formula:

Money. No Essence cover is complete with the mention of money and how to get more of it. Appearances on the cover in the past twelve months: 12

Men. Anything from what they think or how to get one of your own. Hell, they'll even pop up on the cover from time to time. Appearances in the past twelve months: 9

Hair. Isn't it funny that no matter how much they tout "sexy new styles" on the cover, when you look inside it's the same lame hairdos that they've been pushing for years? One relaxed bob, a couple of weave styles, and "natural style." I don't think I'd notice if they used the same pics every month. Appearances in the past twelve months: 9

Health. Black woman are more at risk for certain conditions, this is true but the recycled information that Essences thrown on their pages every month isn't getting my attention. Appearances in the past twelve months: 9

Weight. This once overlaps with health on occasion but usually, it gets its own tagline on the cover. Interestingly, there are more references to it on covers produced this year than on last year's covers. Appearances in the past twelve months: 6

The Two Divas: Mary J Blige and Jill Scott. Essences loves them like People Magazine loves Brad and Angelina. Appearances in the past twelve months: 5

**Is there anyone out there who actually collects these issues? Am I going to be sucking my teeth because I recycled mine fifty years from now when they show up on Antiques Roadshow 2058?

Vintage Covers: Interview Magazine 12/72 Andy Warhol and Naomi Sims

The American Society of Fashion Editors voted this cover as one of the "40 Greatest Magazine Covers of the Past 40 Years" back in 2005.

Naomi Sims was a popular model before I started consuming fashion magazines so I don't know much about her. I will share however, that her skincare line was among the first department store skin care products that I ever purchased.

I recall being stunned as a high school student to discover it being carried by Nordstrom. The saleslady didn't even get half-way through her spiel before I agreed to purchase the kit. It cost me a whopping $65 which was a lot considering that The Colonel only paid something like $3.15/hr at the fried chicken emporium that was my after school job.

I can't remember it doing anything miraculous to my skin but I sure felt sophisticated using her products when I went away to college. You couldn't talk to me when I was in the mirror rubbing that potion into my fat cheeks, because I was the shit.

I wonder if they're even still making that stuff...

ETA: It is still being made

Riahanna Covers Elle Magazine 6/2008

As always, she's a lovely young woman but I hope the photos in the spread are nicer than the cover choice. Poor girl is crushed between all that pink and black text. Also, by her smirk and the way she's posed I would guess that she just let one rip.

Source: Cover Awards

Vogue Italia to Publish an issue featuring Black models

According to Fashionista blog, Steven Meisel has already shot an entire issue of Vogue Italia with all black models. His hope is that the other Vogues will take note and start to diversify their own pages. I couldn't find any information on which lucky models will appear in the issue or when it will go to press. I just know that I might have to camp out at the newsstand when this one lands and if I see any animal print on the cover somebody is going to get hurt. Thanks to Carmen at Racialicious for the update. My vacation is nearing its end and I should be back home updating this blog around the end of the month, much fatter and poorer thanks to French wine and cheese and the unspeakably awful USD exchange rate in Europe.

If Bey-Z gets married and there are no photos released, did it really happen?

There is an article over at the NY Daily News today that wonders out loud if tabloid magazines are bias against non-white celebrities.

In this instance they're pointing to the soft coverage given Beyonce and Jay-Z's recent wedding.

Of the major celebrity tabloids, only US Weekly gave Beyonce the cover while most of the other relegated the wedding to the sidebar. Interestingly, People Magazine (the bathroom literature of choice for Middle America) gave Beyonce the cover as well.

According to the article a "top" tabloid editor said that the wedding was played down because (wait for it) "African Americans don't sell covers." Another source shared that ""We have a saying, 'Only Oprah.' Oprah is the only black celebrity big enough to put on our cover."

Yep, we are sharing air with people who think that "stars" from fake reality TV shows trump established actors for space on magazine covers. No big surprise here.

But is the lack of attention from tabloids really a bad thing?

I'm reminded of an article I read a few years back about Raven Symone who is one of Disney's top moneymakers yet rarely appears on the pages of celebrity magazines alongside other Disney stars like that dude with they eyebrows who kind of looks like a robot and that girl who posted nude pictures of herself online.

If I remember correctly, the conclusion of the piece was that this fact was a double edged sword.

On the one hand, black celebrities don't have to deal with the unwanted attention that fame brings while the flip side makes them less visible to the people in Hollywood with enough clout to keep them gainfully employed.

Then there is the issue of certain black celebrity focused blogs.

I'll admit that I read them. I am just as curious about who wore what wear and general entertainment news but I usually have to draw the line at reading the mainly anonymously posted comments given about any particular actress. I'm just too old and the comments are usually just too mean. The focus of some of these blogs is "who are we going to hate on today" instead of just providing the mindless entertainment I crave.

Now, this isn't to imply that celebrity magazines represent the bastion of journalistic integrity but damn, at least someone over there has to talk to a publicist every now or maybe do the most basic fact check.

So back to Beyonce. I think it's great that it appears that she hasn't sold her wedding photos to the highest bidder and is keeping the whole affair private but....

I do want to know what her wedding dress looked like and if it was designed by her mama.

I want to know if the former members of Destiny's Child sent gifts.

I want to know if the Popeye's chicken that was reportedly served at the reception was served on fine china or if they just passed around a bucket.

Lastly, I want to know the identity of the guest (or guests) that is rumored to have brought a handgun to the ceremony (I know in my heart that it was Gwenyth Paltrow.)

I'm just nosy like that. I love weddings and babies and cake. Sue me.

UK Harper's Bazaar - Liya Kebede - May 2008

Source: miss_nyc/TFS

Mariah Carey - Allure 4/2008

Because I am a beauty product junkie, I have a subscription to Allure. Let's just get that out of the way. Month after month, I am treated to the same boring excessively airbrushed covers. This month's issue features Mariah Carey wearing someone else's nose and an accompanying article that was as full of air as marshmallow fluff.*

If you are just emerging from a coma and find this issue next to the call button you will learn that Mariah a)is mixed race, b) was married unhappily to the head of her old record label, c) suffered a very public meltdown, d) and is very chaste in spite of her tramp on acid presence.

I wonder if an actual person wrote this dreck or if it was just spit out of some random rainbow word generator. I also wonder if the editor of Allure secretly hates Mariah because the accompanying red carpet pictures of the singer taken over the years are truly hideous.

Source: designer<3er/lsa>

The rest of the issue, on the other hand is surprisingly okay. It contains, not one but two multi-page spreads featuring black models, Ubah and Chanel Iman. Actually there are three if you count the photo of model Israela in a makeup editorial. There's also a brief piece on Rashida Jones and her mother Peggy Lipton that really has nothing to do with the beauty treatment article that follows it.

You know what bugs me about sample inserts? Unless it is lotion or perfume, the insert is completely useless. I have only ever seen one shade of foundation on those sample cards and it is always in "ivory." That shade doesn't even match most of the white women I know. Of course, this hardly matters because I can never resist trying the sample anyway which winds up making me look like I have some kind of skin pigment disorder.

The rest of the magazine is typical Allure: anti-aging articles, the "body makeover" section, a rundown of skin treatments like serums, overpriced creams and micro-dermabrasion (this one used an black woman as the tester.)

All in all, I'd say the April issue is one of the better ones to come out in recent months and worth a look the next time you're in line at the grocer.

*Does anyone else remember that stuff? I don't even want to think about what it was made of. When I was a kid I remember spreading it and peanut butter on sandwiches. If I caught my husband feeding that crap to my kid I might just strangle him.

King James Covers Vogue's "Sh-ape" Issue

You know what? I don't even know if I have the energy to go there with this jacked up cover so I'm only going to make two points.

First, why does Anna Wintour have such a hard nipples for black folks with their mouths hanging wide open on her magazine? Specifically, I'm thinking about Jennifer Hudson's horribly unflattering cover last year.

Second, the first image that came into my mind when I saw Lebron's contorted expression and Gisele (in Calvin Klein) looking like a windswept maiden was this one:

That is all. I'm think I'm going to have to lay down now.

Essence Magazine Hollywood Issue

Well it may be full of the same old faces but I applaud Essence for doing their own gatefold cover Hollywood Issue. I have a love/hate relationship with the magazine which in my view has been recycling content for the last 15 years. At the end of the day however, it really is the only magazine of its type on the newsstand that caters to Black women so I still end up buying it month after month.

Vanity Fair "Hollywood Issue" Part II

I stand corrected. It seems that Thandie Newton is the only woman of African descent to ever make the cover of VF's Hollywood Issue in 1999. Also, in addition to Chris Rock's appearance on the cover in 2007, Djimon Hounsou managed to elbow his way onto it in 1998. I would love it if Essence magazine would spend a few bucks to hire a real photographer to do their own Hollywood Issue.

Why I Don't Blame Naomi for Throwing a Cell Phone Every Now and Then

via The London News

Black models have little hope of making it big, the founders of one of the world's biggest model agencies said today.

Carole White, who founded Premier Model Management, said even Naomi Campbell, who she represented for 17 years, failed to make as much money as her white contemporaries who include Kate Moss and Claudia Schiffer.

Her words echo the feelings of the supermodel who recently said she gets a "raw deal" in England.

White said: “A black girl has to be perfect to get work. The bookers are told “don’t send any ethnic girls”.

“I showed a picture of a new black girl to an agent in Milan and he actually recoiled. He said: “We don’t have black girls in Milan. It’s impossible”.”

She added: “Black girls never make money. Even Naomi Campbell didn’t make money like the white girls did’ she was always offered less.”

Six months ago Campbell launched her own campaign to find new black talent. She had planned to launch a model scouts agency in Kenya.

"Black models are being sidelined, even myself, I get a raw deal from my own country in England.”

"It’s a pity people don’t appreciate black beauty," she said.

Vanity Fair "Hollywood Issue" 3/2008

This is a truly magical time of year. With the Writer's Strike nearing and end (fingers crossed,) it seems that The Academy Awards have been handed a stay of execution which means there will be much ink and space given to pretty skinny people in expensive clothes. Really, The Oscars are like The Superbowl for me and even though I haven't seen any of the nominees, I have definite opinions about who deserves to win.

Another thing that lands with a loud plop at the newsstand this month is Vanity Fair's annual Hollywood Issue. A barrage of the same old faces shot by the same old photographer, it hasn't been interesting for years yet I still have to see it for myself. I can't help it.

Part of the fun is trying to guess who will land in the "black" spot of the cover each year. For the uninitiated, the "black spot" is the space grudging given to a black actor of actress on one of the non-cover fold out spaces. Chris Rock appeared on the cover of the Hollywood issue once but I can't recall another person of African descent making the fold.

This year's winner is the lovely Zoe Saldana and what a striking image she cuts. Dead center on the fully folded out cover wearing a old school glamazon Dior bathing suit. All the reclining actresses around her stading figure seem to fade into the background. The contrast between her skin and the bathing suit really draws one's eye to her figure and she almost appears to be on display for the bored vacant eyes around her. Interesting choice to say the least.

So yes, I will trudge down to the bookstore and flip through this issue from cover to cover but is it really worth buying? Who knows. My guess is that there will also be a pic of Will Smith or Don Cheadle and maybe a Ruby Dee to round things out but I don't think I'll be leaving the store with this one tucked under my arm.

Eve Covers BUST Magazine - Feb/08

I let my subscription to BUST lapse a long time ago. Somewhere in between instructions for knitting a vibrator cozy and the ad for W.W.J.J.D (What Would Joan Jett Do?) t-shirts, I realized that I was not a hipster and had no business reading their literature. I was also to old to be seen reading it on the bus.

In spite I this, I still picked up the latest issue when I saw it at the grocery store last night. First of all, Eve is on the cover and while I probably wouldn't call myself a fan, she doesn't bug me.* Second, I have an uncontrollable impulse to buy most any non-smut magazine that has a Black woman on the cover. It's residual knee-jerk reaction to the long held publishing myth that black faces don't sell magazines. The only other Black woman I can remember gracing BUST's cover is Missy Elliott and that was about a hundred years ago.

I was pleasantly surprised. Not only does it contain the feature article on Eve, but there is also an interview with Reno 911's Niecy Nash, a piece on former Stiffed lead singer turned solo artist Santogold, and short pieces on dance troop Brown Girls Burlesque and Sia Amma, a Liberian born performer and activist.

I can't help but wonder if the editors are actually making a conscious effort to be more inclusive or if this is a one time only deal published to coincide with Black History Month.

*actually those paw print tattoos but me but that's another matter.

Vogue Paris 2/08 : Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss

Naomi has been racking up the covers lately hasn't she? She covered Marie Claire (Spain) in December of last year solo and now here she is again on French Vogue with Kate Moss.

She was the first Black model to get a French Vogue cover though she later remarked that the only reason she got the cover was at the insistence of Yves Saint Laurent himself. I had high hopes for the cover when I first read about it on The Fashion Spot but I'm not wild about the photos. Naomi looks like she's holding Kate hostage, maybe that's why explains the "Wanted!"text splashed underneath the photo. Hmmm....I'll stop writing now before someone accuses me of never being happy with anything.

Inside photos and another FV cover (with Christy Turlington) to follow:



Photo Source: TFS/Vini

ANTM Winner Saleisha Cooper

America's Next Top Model peaked for me many moons ago. I was addicted to the first three seasons of the show but after awhile each new "cycle" stared to top the previous one in predictability and dullness. I probably only saw three episodes of the most recent season.

This is the most recent winner's Seventeen magazine cover.

I find it interesting that Saleisha's cover also just happens to be a cover for actress Vanessa Hudgens cover (which the editors point out pretty effectively with the massive inset.) It reminds me a little of the May 1996 Vogue cover that featured Nikki Taylor on the outside cover and Naomi Campbell on the inside flap.

Nevertheless, it is a cute photo.

Trace Magazine: Black Girls Rule

Yep, it's that time of year again.

I'm speaking of that magical time when a telephone book sized issue of Vogue hits the stands.

Honestly, it is the only time I regularly buy Vogue unless there's a Black woman of the cover (which means that yes, I bought the Jennifer Hudson issue in spite of that awful cover photo.)

Fall also brings us Trace Magazine's Black Girls Rule issue which is the closest I come to buying an inspirational self-help tome.

I can't express to you how I felt the first time I came across this special issue several years back but the word 'giddy' comes to mind.

To be fair, some issues have been better than others and I must say that the last few years have not been up to snuff. Unimaginative photography, poor styling and models that weren't all that equaled a big why bother in my mind.

This year however is a different story. Goddess among mortals Iman is the editor. Freakin' IMAN people! And the dark chocolate beauty on the cover makes my heart sing. BGR! is back with a vengance. God bless Trace Magazine, I might buy two.

Ebony Magazine Does Fashion

You read that right, your grandma's "good news" rag has finally published an issue worth buying. Taking its cue from women's Fall fashion magazines, Ebony has decided to print its own tribute to Blacks in the fashion industry.

For the first time in my life, I will actually purchase and issue of Ebony instead of just thumbing through it at the beauty salon (why is there always a mountain high stack of Ebony and Jet magazine at the salon anyway?)

Now, this is Ebony so it's not going to be perfect but I'll cut them a little slack because when I was a kid, I dreamed of becoming a Fashion Fair model. I thought they were the most beautiful women in the world and they got to tour the country like rock starts.

I really would like to have seen someone else instead of Miss Tyra on the cover. Pat Cleveland anyone? Where is Grace Jones? Karen Alexander?? Crazy ass Beverly Johnson?

But I digress, with the absence of Black models on runways and in print ads, it's nice to see a few gorgeous divas on the cover of a magazine.